By Christopher Breward, Becky E. Conekin, Caroline Cox
Is there a principally English ‘look’ and if this is the case how does one outline it?From the 'traditional' gown of the Victorian rural operating type via to the modern collections of Vivienne Westwood and a more youthful new release of London-based designers, notions of Englishness, both actual or imagined, have continually been at play in concerns of English type and garments. This provocative ebook explores how a ways those fraught beliefs might be utilized to the costume of the previous and current. English expressions of style and creativity have had a profound effect on type over the past 3 centuries, and the pursuit and subversion of an English 'look' have formed conceptions of fashionability from the pastoralism of the eighteenth-century via to the eras of Twiggy, Punk and past. yet are those easily stereotypical characterizations that relate to an imagined 'Englishness', or is there a few concrete foundation for them? If the previous, what has ended in their improvement? If the latter, what definitions could be hired to resolve such advanced conceptions of nationwide id? What position has social decorum performed in constructing an 'English' kind, and is that this preoccupation with etiquette in reality designated to England ?With chapters authored through prime students within the fields of dress historical past, social historical past and cultural experiences, this can be the 1st e-book to ascertain the ways that style and get dressed can be thought of within the context of nationwide identities as they practice in England. offering an summary of ways specific designers and buyer teams have striven to offer or contest models of Englishness via garments from the 18th via to the twenty first centuries, it's going to fascinate a person drawn to costume background, nationwide and ethnic id or English cultural background.
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Additional resources for The Englishness of English Dress
Sample text
Blue shirts have now lost their working-class connotation, and are equally to be seen worn with – 23 – Aileen Ribeiro the pin-striped suit of the corporate lawyer, accountant or business executive as with the baggy tweeds, knitted pullover or cardigan (another English invention) of the patrician Englishman of a certain age and type. These styles, of course, have by now become uniforms – symbols of status and caste – and quite removed from the individuality which is an intrinsic part of artistic clothing.
The first is Andrew Borde’s – 25 – Aileen Ribeiro doggerel account of his European travels in the 1540s, the First Boke of the Introduction of Knowledge, where the image of an Englishman (a woodcut showing a naked man with a pair of tailoring shears) accompanies this verse (quoted in Ribeiro 1986: 65): I am an Englishman, and naked I stand here Musyng in my mynde what rayment I shal were For now I wyll were thys, and now I wyl were that Now I wyl were I cannot tel what. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. The notion that the English were not sure of their identity via dress and clothed themselves in the fashions of other countries was a long-running joke which lasted well into the seventeenth century (frequently commented on in the literature of the time).
2000), The Gallery of Fashion, London: National Portrait Gallery. – 27 – This page intentionally left blank Englishness, Clothes and Little Things –2– Englishness, Clothes and Little Things Carolyn Steedman If historians (English social and cultural historians) want to think about Englishness in the last decades of the eighteenth century and the early nineteenth century, then there are two major historical theses to guide them. In the case of this book and the conference that inspired it, it is imperative to acknowledge these theses and to bring them to the testing point of clothes and dress.