By Cheryl Buckley, Hilary Fawcett

Representations of trendy femininity have extended in the course of the twentieth century. In model shop advertisements, magazines, images, and museum collections, advanced types of female id were and are being shaped. This e-book examines the connection among women’s style, woman illustration, and femininity in Britain from the top of the nineteenth to the top of the twentieth century.

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Fashioning the Feminine: Representation and Women's Fashion from the Fin De Siecle to the Present

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The integration of popular painting with fashion and romantic fiction in these magazines was part of a broad discourse on femininity that informed middle-class taste. The clothing worn in paintings such as those by Tadema, minimal though it was, did in some ways connect to the loose, diaphanous and unstructured 34 FASHIONING THE FEMININE nature of fashionable items such as the tea gown and more closely the peignoir or negligee. The veil was associated with female sexuality and with the veil of the hymen.

As life in Edwardian society required a number of outfits for any given day, fashion markets rapidly expanded. 50 Advertisements for corsets, hair dyes, cosmetics and the other beauty apparatus opened up a world in which the construction of the feminine through commodities became identified with female duty. It became the responsibility of women to recreate themselves in the form presented on the fashion and society pages. 51 Here we see established the rules by which the feminine must be shaped.

These various events and functions created new and expanding markets in clothing and an increasing outlay on fashion for those wealthy enough to be part of the season. In this moneyed arena, an engagement in relatively open sexual adventures by the Prince of Wales and his circle, far from resulting in notoriety for the women involved, in the case of Langtry, Alice Keppel and Daisy Warwick only increased their status and acceptance within society. Daisy, Lady Warwick had met Edward in 1883, and remained his ‘favourite’ until the mid-1890s, when she was succeeded by the society beauty Alice Keppel.

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Fashioning the Feminine: Representation and Women's Fashion by Cheryl Buckley, Hilary Fawcett
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