By Open University
Thoroughly revised and up-to-date for its moment version, this quantity belongs to the Open college sequence on oceanography. it truly is designed in order that it may be learn by itself or studied as a part of the Open collage third-level direction, S330 Oceanography. The booklet starts by means of describing the features of waves and tides, and their behaviour in shallow water. After outlining the resources of sediment offer to the oceans, a few theoretical features of sediment circulation and deposition by way of currents are thought of. After wave motion within the littoral area, the interaction of tidal currents, river circulation and wave motion in estuaries and deltas are explored. the ultimate bankruptcy offers an summary of shelf processes.This is a crucial ebook for all oceanography undergraduate scholars world wide. effortless to exploit query and resolution formatFull color illustrations throughout35-40% revised and prolonged from 1st version
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Additional info for Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes, Second Edition
Example text
Great destruction can be wreaked by a tsunami. It is not unknown for people on board ships at anchor offshore to be unaware of a tsunami passing beneath them, but to witness the adjacent shoreline being pounded by large waves only a few seconds later. Tsunamis occur most frequently in the Pacific, because that ocean experiences frequent seismic activity, particularly around its margins. Accurate earthquake detection can give warning of the approach of tsunamis to coasts some distance from the earthquakes.
In theory, a point could be reached where wave speed is reduced to zero, so that a giant wave builds up to an infinite height (it can be shown mathematically that this occurs when the counter-current exceeds half the group speed of the wave in still water). However, in practice, as waves propagate against a counter-current of ever-increasing strength, they become shorter, steeper and higher until they become unstable and break; so waves do not propagate against a counter-current of more than half their group speed.
1). 3. •. ---. G to Moon - --- EQuatOf ••.... 4(b). In other words, an equilibrium state would be reached (called the equilibrium tide), producing an ellipsoid with its two bulges directed towards and away from the Moon. So, paradoxically, although the tide-producing forces are minimal at A and G, those are the points towards which the water would tend to go. e. 4(b). 5). e. 3). Moreover, on the side of the Earth away from the Moon, the gravitational attraction due to the Moon is less than it is on the side of the Earth facing the Moon.