By Michael Buckley

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The manager of the houseboat I stayed on told me there was no trouble in Kashmir. 303s. I passed a heavily sandbagged police station that had a blue paddywagon and a fire engine outside with steel mesh across the windows. Srinagar was like a powder keg, ready to go up at any second. I got out quickly, headed for the next destination, Dharamsala, seat of the Tibetan government in exile. In early June I cycled through the foothills of north-west India, through pinewood forests. I 48 MEETING GREAT OCEAN hitched a ride on the open back of a truck for a hair-raising ride through Jawahar Tunnel, which bored two miles through a mountainside.

There are five chapels, some in their original state, some retouched. In one chapel thousands of painted miniature Buddhas line the walls; in another, elaborate mandalas can be made out with the help of a torch. Another holds a lifelike portrait of Rinchen Tsangbo, the founder of the monastery in the eleventh century. People must’ve been a lot smaller then – the scale of everything is tiny – and I keep banging my head on the low doorways. It is hard to believe that something built almost a thousand years ago is still standing, still being renovated.

Can you imagine if the oracle got a busload of tourists? ’ ***** My sojourn in Leh was becoming lengthy. I had stayed past the acclimatisation period I’d given myself, seduced by the simple charm of the place, and by Ladakhi friendliness. Departure was complicated by the fact that no one seemed to know when Zoji La would be clear of snow; some said the end of May, others halfway into June. It would take maybe ten days to get to Zoji La. I had to set a departure date: I chose the twenty-first of May, the day after Buddha’s birthday.

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Heartlands by Michael Buckley
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